The size displayed on a label does not correspond to a universal measurement. A size 38 from one brand may equal a size 40 from another, as each brand defines its own sizing standards. Choosing your clothing size therefore relies on a precise approach: taking your measurements, comparing them to each brand’s size guides, and then adjusting according to the fabric and cut of the desired model.
Vanity sizing: why the size on the label is no longer enough
Vanity sizing refers to the practice by a brand of enlarging the actual measurements of a garment while keeping the same displayed size. A size 40 made today is often larger than a size 40 produced twenty years ago, without any change to the label.
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This phenomenon mainly affects mass-market brands, which adjust their sizing standards to flatter customers’ perceptions. Conversely, some fast-fashion brands maintain or slightly reduce their actual measurements to limit fabric costs. The result: two garments labeled 38 can differ by several centimeters in bust or hip measurements.
A generic size guide (S, M, L or 36, 38, 40) thus loses reliability as soon as you switch from one brand to another. The only solution is to work with your own body measurements, then compare them to the brand’s size chart, item by item. Additionally, the size guide on Maman Modeuse details the correspondences between French, European, and international systems to facilitate this comparison.
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Taking your measurements: method and measurement points
Three measurements are sufficient to cover the majority of women’s clothing: the bust measurement, waist measurement, and hip measurement. A flexible measuring tape, placed directly on the skin or over thin underwear, provides the most accurate results.
- Bust measurement: place the measuring tape horizontally, at the level of the fullest part of the bust, without compressing or leaving any slack. Keep your arms down by your sides.
- Waist measurement: measure at the natural waistline, usually two or three centimeters above the navel. Do not suck in your stomach.
- Hip measurement: wrap the tape around the widest part of the hips, over the buttocks. Keep your feet together.
Taking these measurements while standing in front of a mirror ensures that the tape remains horizontal across your back. A difference of a few centimeters between two measurements is normal depending on the time of day: noting the highest value guarantees a comfortable size choice.
Reading a size guide by brand: what changes from one brand to another
Each brand publishes a size chart that correlates its sizes with measurement ranges in centimeters. These charts can be found on the product page or in a dedicated section of the website. The first thing to check is the unit of measurement (centimeters or inches) and whether the guide pertains to the category of clothing (dress, pants, top).
The same bust measurement may correspond to an S in one brand and an M in another. The best practice is to enter your three measurements into the brand’s chart and to retain the size that encompasses the highest measurement. If the hip measurement indicates a 40 but the waist measurement points to a 38, size 40 remains the safest choice.
For fitted clothing and stretch fabrics
For a fitted dress or skinny jeans made from stretch fabric, going down a size from the chart may work because the elastane compensates for the margin. For a structured blazer or wool coat, it’s better to stick to the indicated size or even go up if the shoulders are broad. The composition of the fabric directly affects the fit and thus the comfort at the same size.
Online size recommendation tools: what they are worth
Brands like Zalando and ASOS have deployed size recommendation systems that rely on artificial intelligence and body scanning. The principle: the customer provides her measurements (or sends photos), and the algorithm cross-references this data with feedback from other buyers on the same item.
These tools go beyond a simple static chart. They incorporate past purchases, retained sizes, and returned sizes to refine the suggestion. The return rate related to poor size choice significantly decreases at brands that use them.
A few limitations to keep in mind:
- The reliability depends on the volume of data collected. For a recent item with few sales, the recommendation remains approximate.
- The photos used for the scan must meet specific conditions (lighting, posture, fitted underwear), otherwise the extracted measurements may deviate.
- These tools do not replace reading the brand’s size guide. They work better as a complementary filter than as a sole source.
Cross-referencing the automatic recommendation with your own measurements and the brand’s chart remains the most reliable method to avoid a return.
The choice of size relies on three concrete actions: measuring your body with a measuring tape, consulting the target brand’s guide, and adjusting according to the fabric. Online tools refine the decision, but they do not replace the knowledge of your own measurements. Keeping a notebook with your three reference values simplifies every purchase, both in-store and online.